Maly Modelarz 4-5/98 German Tank PzKpfw VI "Tiger" Ausf. H1 Designer: Marian Sobel --------------------------------- Technical Data: Crew - 5 Length overall - 8450 mm Width - 3705 mm Height - 3000 mm Gross Mass - 56 900 kg Armour: Hull front - 100 mm Hull sides - 60-80 mm Turret front - 100 mm Turret sides - 80 mm Armament - KWK 36 calibre 88 mm Cannon and two 7.9 mm calibre machine guns Range on road - 100 km Range cross-country - 60 km Road speed - 45 km/h Model is realised to a scale of 1:25. In the second half of the 1930's the Germans were preparing for war. In particular the role that armoured vehicles would play in combat was being clarified. Military campaigns (in particular on the Eastern Front) indicated weaknesses in the tanks then deployed. The standard main armament of the PzKpfw IV was the short barrelled 75 mm cannon which was very inefficient in fighting the T-34 and KW tanks. Their armour also failed them. On the basis of these experiences the German High Command commissioned the firms of Henschel and Porsche to develop and build as soon as possible a prototype heavy tank. On the 20 April 1942 field trials were carried out of prototypes VK. 4501 (H) and VK 4501 (P). The firm Henschel's prototype won the contract. After eliminating several defects it was put in production with the designation PzKpfw VI "Tiger" Ausf. H1 (Sd. Kfz. 181). The appearance of the first "Tiger" at the front startled the Allies. They had nothing at the time to oppose it. The JS-2 tank hardly changed the disastrous situation. The main armament of the "Tiger" was a modified 88 mm anti-aircraft gun KWK (36 calibre), which could effectively destroy enemy tanks even at a range of 3000 m. It had its baptism of fire in September 1942 near Leningrad. Heavy tanks of the type PzKpfw VI "Tiger" took part on almost all fonts in Europe and in North Africa. In action heavy tank battalions numbered at first about 59 and later 45 machines. Next in 1944 the "Tiger II" ("King Tiger" ) was introduced which was previously named Pz Kpfw II "Tiger" Aus. E (or "Tiger I") - translation of second half of this sentence uncertain. Between July 1942 and August 1944 the total number of these tanks produced was 1354 tanks. -------------------------------------------------- Terms on Diagrams: Schemat podwozia czolgu = diagram of the tank's chassis Rys. = Diagram Str. = page or side Szkielet kadluba = hull framework/skeleton Mechanism obrotu wiezy = turret rotation mechanism Szkielet wiezy = turret framework Wzory = templates szt. = (no. of ) pieces to be made from the template L = left P = right W = cut out wyciac = cut out arkusz = sheet -------------------------------------------------- General Remarks The model is relatively difficult to construct. Construct it according to the overall plans, diagrams and description, at all times working patiently and very precisely. These remarks apply in particular to the assembly of the hull and turret frameworks. The construction of the wheel clusters and the caterpillar tracks is especially time consuming. The following supplementary material is required in order to build the model: cardboard of 1mm thickness, card of 0.5 mm thickness, bristol board, wire of 0.5 mm diameter, grey something?? (maybe card) of 1 mm thickness, poster paints or Humbrol or Revell, perhaps acrylic, as well as clear Nitro or Revell Matt varnish. For glue the best to use are Wikol, Hermol and Butapren. Required tools: straight and curved medium scissors, sharp blade, metal ruler, pliers for cutting wire, something?? of diameter 4 and 5 milimeter, scraps of sand paper and various paint brushes. Before starting to build the model it is suggested that you thoroughly study the instructions and diagrams. As a general rule construction sequence is according to the numbers of the parts, this rule should be adhered to even by the more experienced. -------------------------------------------------------- Basic cautions, recommendations and explanations of symbols found on diagrams and in the instructions: - one asterisk next to a number - glue to 0.5 mm card or bristol (*k card, *b bristol) - two asterisks - glue to cardboard of 1 mm thickness - letter "W" - cut out the area e.g. hole, opening - scissors symbol - cut partially or completely into the part along the line - parts printed in half of a coloured rectangle - fold or cut along the line which divides the rectangle in two, glue together unprinted sides before cutting out the part so that it ends up double thickness with colour on both surfaces - small numbers in white areas - sites of attachment of parts with corresponding numbers - small sketches or spirals next to parts indicate the method/direction of folding or rolling up of parts Remember also: - cut parts out along the outer border lines, - prepare shapes by folding and curving parts and test-fit before gluing, - adjust the size of openings according to the fit of parts before gluing, - paint unprinted areas which will show to the correct colour before assembly, - likewise paint the cut edges before assembly. The entire model can be painted with thin transparent Nitro varnish or Revell Matt. The best method is an airbrush which will give a smooth, even coat to the whole surface of the tank. -------------------------------- Assembling the model Hull Glue all parts of the hull framework marked with asterisks to cardboard of 1 mm thickness. The exception is part K10 which is glued to cardboard of 0.8 mm. (The rotation piece marked K12 on the diag. does not exist - refer to part 92 later in instructions. ??K12 on diag. is an error). Cut out the pieces accurately including all the slits and mounting apertures. Assemble the framework without glue and test-fit the covering sheets parts 1, 2, 3 and 4. In cases of ill-fitting, adjust the parts of the framework. Glue the framework together in the sequence of the frame numbers. To reinforce the structure, glue in place right-angle pieces made from 5X5 pieces of bristol board. Prepare likewise strips of 1 mm card to reinforce from inside the joins in the outer sheathing of the hull. Cut out and shape, then glue into place the hull covering from parts 1, 2, 3 and 4. (They must have already been cut out!?) Thicken parts 5P, 5L and 6a with card and attach to marked positions. Next glue on part 6. The resulting thickened edge is covered by gluing on strips 7P and 7L. On top glue part 8. Proceed in a similar manner with parts 9P, 9L and 10. Next cut out and attach the outer parts of the driving mechanism - 11P, 11L, 12 and 13. The observer's hatch cover is assembled from sub-units parts 14, 15, 16P, 16L and 17. The machine gun mounting is made from 18, 18a and 18b and, after shaping, is attached to its position. Parts 19 and 19a are glued to the forward upper part of the hull. Proceed similarly with parts 20 and 20a. The covers of the hatches for the driver and gunner are made from parts 21P, 21L, 22P, 22L, and 23. Assemble them by gluing on top of each other as marked, then glue to the hull. Auxilliary gear is made from parts 24, 24a, 25, 25a, 26, 27, 28, 29 and glued to the marked positions on the hull. The middle portion of the engine compartment cover is outfitted using 30, 31, 31a, 32, 33, 34, 35, 35a, 35b, 36, 36a, 37, 38, 39, 40, 40a, 40b, 40c, 41, 41a. The elements requiring reinforcement are glued to card, then as for other parts are cut out, formed and glued in position according to auxilliary sketches. The side covers of the engine compartment are made from 42P, 42L, 43P, 43L, 44P, 44L, 45, 46, 47, 48, 49, 50. Next the equipment of the rear wall of the hull is made as well as the exhaust pipe and also the cover. Reinforce part 51 and glue to hull. Cut out and form the exhaust pipes 52a to fit the holes, close with discs 52b and glue into bodies 52. Glue the assembled units to the hull. Form the covers by shaping parts 53P and L. Glue the remaining parts to their locations on the rear wall: 54, 55, 56, 57, 58 ,59, 59a, 60, 60a. The jack is made from parts 61, 62, 62a, 63, 63a, 64, 64a, 65, 65a. Attach it to the hull with strips 66. The Turret and Gun The turret framework is made from parts W1-W7 reinforced with cardboard, cut out and assembled as for the hull framework. Sand and adapt the frames so that the covering pieces 67 and 68 fit. (The accuracy of this fit ensures a good bonding to the framework). Glue together in the order of the frame numbers, then glue the plating parts 67 and 68 over the framework. At the front add the reinforcing parts 68a and 68b, sand, then glue 68cP and L to cover the edges. Make the rear boxes using 69, 69a, 69b, 70P, 70L, 70a, 71, 72. Periscope casing is 73. The side hatch lid consists of 74, 74a, 74b, 74c, 74d, 74e. Reinforce as indicated by asterisks, cut out and glue to turret. The pair of elements 74c are rolled into tight tubes to make hinge pins and glued to parts 74b. Use 0.5 mm diameter wire to make the handle according to template 74e and attach to the lid. Next glue parts 75 and 75a. Manufacture the turret command hatch as a unit from parts 76, 76a, 76b, 76c, 76d, 76e, 76f, 76g, 76h, 76i, 76j, 76k, 76l and 76l(with stroke through upright): Glue discs 76a, 76b, 76c, 76h to cardboard and card, then cut out. Form 76 into a ring. On top glue ring 76c, on the inside glue belt 76d. To the inside fit disc 76b, fit and glue against part 76d. On the bottom fit disc 76a. Around the cylinder glue 76e, f and g. On top mount lid 76h, and to this hinges made from parts 76i, 76j, 76k, 76l. Using 0.5 mm wire fashion a handle using template 76l (with stroke through). Glue the completed hatch to the turret. On the side wall are attached parts 77, 77a, the hatch lid for the break-down store (78, 78a, 78b), the observation opening covers (79, 79a), transporting handles (80, 80a, 80b, 80c) as well as reinforcing plates 81 and 82. Commence construction of the gun joke from parts 83, 84, 84a, 84b, 85P, 85L, 85a, 86, 87: Cut out part 83, join and glue to turret. Shape part 84 after cutting out. Glue cardboard reinforced 84a inside it. Assemble the other parts of the yoke. Glue the completed unit to part 83. The gun barrel is composed of the following parts: 88, 88a, 88b, 88c, 89, 89a, 89b, 89c, 90, 91, 91a, 91b, 91c, 91d. Shape and glue 88, 89 and 90 into tubes, in the rear end of part 88 glue a disc 88a. Next glue strips 88b around the circumference so that 89 can slide over with a snug fit. Cover the gap with conical ring 89a. Attach second disc 88a to the back of tube 90, wind a strip of Bristol board around 90 and glue it inside tube 88 to the correct depth. Cover the gap with conical strip 88c. The gun muzzle is built using: 91, 91a, 91b, 91c, 91d. The completed turret is joined to the hull so that it can rotate using a cylinder made from K11 and 92. Undercarriage Begin by gluing supports 93, 94, 94a to cardboard, cut out and glue in place on the hull. To obtain the correct angle the units should slope so that the entire hull is elevated by 1.5 mm. Before assembly carefully familiarise yourself with the arrangement of the wheel units as shown in the diagram termed "Schemat podwozia czolgu" (Tank undercarriage schema). The road wheel assemblies are comprised of parts 95, 96, 97, 97a, 97b, 98, 98a. (Note that 95 and 96 in Diag. 10 are swapped). Cut the wheel discs 97 from the sheets, score, curve into slight cones with printed side inside and glue. Attach thickening rings as in diags. 10 and 6. These individual wheels are glued in groups of three to the axles 95 and 96. The distance between the widely spaced wheels is 19 mm, but between the close pair it is 1 mm. The cog wheels are made from parts 99, 99a, 99b, 100, 100a, 101, 101a, 101b, 102, 102a, 103, 104, 104a: Strips 99, 100, 101 are made into tubes, onto which will be attached the wheel components. The wheel teeth are made by gluing together strips 103 and 103a, then cutting them out (my 103a is not labelled). Assemble all parts as shown in diags. 11 and 6. Mount the completed assembly on the hull. To the front of the hull glue parts 105 and 105a. The drive wheels are made from parts 106, 106a, 106b, 106c, 107, 108, 108a, 108b: Roll strips 106 into tubes, attach discs 106a, then 106b and 106c. Glue strip 107 around it. Cut out and glue the wheel discs. Then reinforce each side of the rims with toothed rings. Glue the completed discs in place on the unit. Attach at markings on each side the triangular brackets 109. It is especially important to take care with the alignment of the corresponding teeth. The gap between the outer disc amounts to 19 mm. The complete wheel is lightly glued in place as it may become necessary to later detach and move it. The tracks are made from parts 110, 111, 112 and 113 (various segments of 110/111 P and L - some 112 not numbered on my part sheets, some labelled 123/a in error?). Their length is adjusted by fitting. Advanced modellers may fashion the middle wheel openings (translation uncertain). A segment of 11 links of track are fastened as reserve to the front plate of the hull (see front cover). The tracks are arranged over the wheels, making sure the drive gear teeth are correctly lined up, shaped and joined to make a whole. Attach also to the passive/static(?translation) drive wheels. Proceed by assembling the front mudguards, rear and front assemblies from parts 114P, 114L, 114a, 114b, 115P, 115L, 116, 117P, 117L. On the back hull plate attach winch handle made from 118, 118a, 118b(wire). Make two headlights from 119, 119a, 119b, 119c, 119d. Manufacture towing hitches using grey cord and 124, fasten in place on hull with fitting strips 120, 121, 122. On the top plates of the hull lay three spare track pins between the cables - 128(wire). Attach towing hooks 123 to front and rear of hull. Using 0.5 mm diam. wire make the machine gun barrel 125a and wrap part 125 around it. Use similar wire for the hatch cover handles 126 and 127. Parts 129 and 129a constitute the radio antenna, attach to right side of hull.