The Roco BR80's are of strange construction. The shell
holds everything together, including the steam cilinders. On the bottom you’ll
find a screw that holds bottom and top plate, including pickup springs. (see figure
4, lower right drawing, screw A) Screw A is positioned exactly right to hold
the middle boiler frame. Only screw A, a 1.8 millimeter screw needs to be
longer. The top plate of this assembly already has a nut sunken in the top
plate.. Put the longer screw in, then an MT bolster pin washer, and then the
boilerframe. You’ll need an extra nut to hold the boilerframe in place. (See
overview drawing item 13).
The original engine
shell held the steam cilinders in place. Now that the shell is no longer used,
you need to fasten these using 2 screws of 1.2 millimeters in appropriate
length, see picture 4 on the next page.
Electrical pickup was
changed slightly. Instead of picking up power from the wheelbands,
it is now bent in
such a way that power is picked up from the flanges. The net result is less
dirt on the power pickups and wheels. Also the wheels not do not wear down, but
the flanges. Run the engines long enough and they will become RP25 like!!
Before fastening the
steam cilinders, mount a Micro-Trains coupler in the coupler pocket.
Now is the time to
start making the boiler frame. The one in this example was made out of 1
millimeter brass stock. The width chosen was 17 millimeters, the length should
be around 1½ times the length of the engine frame. This results in an
acceptable length of the boiler section, compared to the overall length of the
engine. You can also use printed circuit board for this section.
A bad graphic representation of the boiler frame.
The black part is the
hole where the motor will be mounted. Therefore the size depends on your choice
At both ends I have
draw a vertical line, with a little block in the middle. These small sections
are 2 millimeters wide. The black spot is where the frame will be mounted on
Cut away both sides
of the center black spot. That spot should be drilled to accept the 1.8 millimeter
screw end from the engine.
This diagram shows the almost assembled Beyer Garrett.
Note that the universals have been added.
Also the boiler frame
has been attached to both engines using the 1.8 millimeter screws.
Take excess length
off the screws with your favorite cutter, and then add a small amount of
contact cement to the nut. Tighten the nuts so there is eneough swing and play.
The contact cement will hold the nuts in place. I hope you did not forget the
MT bolsterpin washer between the engine frame and the boilerframe.
The next picture
tells you how to make the cardanic rods to go into the universals.
Step 1. Cut 3 small
pieces of brass wire. The long piece needs to be long enough to just fit into
Step 2. Make a fair
drop of solder on the crossings of the wires.
Step 3. Cut the wires
off as shown in the picture.
Step 4. File where
needed to fit.
Next, solder thin but
very flexible wires as shown, from the engine to the motor. And test, test,
test to make sure it all runs smoothly.
Here is an overview with legenda and the tender, boiler
and water tender drawn too.
from Roco #2152 A
part of a Rivarossi/Atlas Y6b boiler
folded/soldered from sheet brass
from Roco BR80
brass 0.5 millimeter
brass 1 millimeter
4 * screw/nut 1.2 millimeter
BR80 engine frame (modified)
skirt and weight
millimeter screw (needs to be longer than the original one)
Universals North West
Short Lines sells them
Cardanic rods, see
Lastly, an example
based on 2 Fleischmann engines.
This is my first try
at bashing a Beyer Garratt. The front water tender came out ok. I think the
boiler is too stocky and a little high. It was made out of brass tube.
Therefore the cab, partly German, also does not look right, and lastly, the
coal tender is simply too high. Note: coal tenders were either high and narrow,
or low and flat (about like the water tender).
This picture shows
the uncovered Garrett.
picture shows the drive, a little different from the Roco based Garrett. This
one is based on 2 Fleischmann engines. The worm runs free in the brass block
and locks into the topgear. The worm also functions as universal.
Drawings by Ruud
Bergsvoort. Pictures by Roco and myself, unless otherwise mentioned.
Have fuN, Maarten Vis